BPAL: Iago, Imperious Tiger-Lily, #93 Engine, OM Ackerman’s Toys, Satyr, Tezcatlipoca, White Rabbit

The last part of the recent order. Imperious Tiger-Lily was a freebie.

Iago: Malevolent, dark and shadowy: sinuous black musk, wet leather and vetiver.
In bottle: Sharp and raw. I’ve always been a bit dubious of “leather” as a descriptor in cruelty-free scents, but on this one I’m kind of sold that that is indeed what it smells like. I can definitely make out the musk too, swimming under it.
On skin, wet: Quite strong, and quite leathery. I figure the other notes, particularly the musk, will come up on drydown.
On skin, drying: Sweetens up a bit and spreads out — there’s a straightforward musk and something a bit resinous in there. The leather’s faded somewhat.
Later: It lasts for several hours, but the secondary notes don’t have the staying power of the musk, so it sweetens and becomes less complex over time.
Verdict: I like it pretty well. Leather’s an intriguing note, so I may have to go for an imp of a purer leather like De Sade and compare.

Imperious Tiger-Lily: Tiger-lily, ginger root, neroli, purple fruits, and frankincense.
In bottle: Citrus (orange, and a bit of lemon) with an undistinguished floral and a bit of spice, chiefly cinnamon, perhaps?
On skin, wet: Blooms into a strong floral, with what seems to be rose, but I don’t have a good nose for the different florals.
On skin, drying: Still mostly floral. I’m not getting the secondary notes so much.
Later: It never achieves a really strong scent, which is probably good, because overstrong florals can be intolerable, but all the same it fades pretty quickly.
Verdict: Meh, another floral. Nothing to get super-excited about.

No. 93 Engine: Balm of Gilead, benzoin, frankincense, balsam of peru, beeswax, saffron, galbanum, calamus, hyssop, mastic, lemon balm, and white sage.
In bottle: Allspice and honey, and some bitter woodsiness.
On skin, wet: The honey blooms significantly, bringing with it some light spicing, more cinnamon than allspice, and a bit of bitter almond.
On skin, drying: Cinnamony with a touch of WD-40 and bitter almond.
Later: It lasts pretty long, converging in a spicy-sweet way with what Bengal’s drydown of cinnamon-and-musk is like.
Verdict: Pretty nice. It’s another contender with Bengal and Wrath for my spice-spectrum. There’s less of the excitingly industrial and metallic notes I hope to get from Steamworksscents though.

Old Man Ackerman’s Instructional Toys (MV Yule 2009 LE): Educational toys for tots! Learn non-Euclidean calculus, catoptric theory, quantum physics, and the mysteries of Elder magic the fun way! An ancient baetylus floating within an array of bizarre trapezoidal figures, glimmering tubes, rusting spheres, and whirling gogs formed from peculiar metals, glowing tektites, strangely suspended lead mirrors, and eerie driftings of meteoric dust.
In bottle: Lemon and some manner of chemical cleaner. I’m put vaguely in mind of citrus-scented furniture polish.
On skin, wet: Very lemony! There’s an undercurrent of polished brass.
On skin, drying: Brightly metallic, and still fairly lemony with an untracably chemical undertone. Not terribly complicated otherwise, and not too much throw.
Later: It fades for a while, but after a few hours resurges with a certain cologne-and-WD-40 character. It’s not too aggressive, but it does have a certain mechanical air with some of the thin-oil notes I’d seen in Robotic Scarab.
Verdict: I’d hoped for metallic notes, but I’d also hoped for more complexity.

Satyr: Unleash the bawdy, unrestrained passion of the satyr! A ferociously masculine scent: sexual, vigorous, and truly wild.
In bottle: A sweet resin, perhaps myrrh, and a touch of nutmeg.
On skin, wet: Spicy with pepper and nutmeg, balanced by sandalwood perhaps?
On skin, drying: Musky, with a bit of nutmeg. All in all, at this stage it reminds me a bit of Debauchery.
Later: Seems to fade fairly quickly. I get a hint of musk on my skin hours later, but hardly a significant scent.
Verdict: This might need a redo. The idea strikes me as a good one, and I’m hoping it was a matter of my day’s skin chemistry that neutralized it so quick.

Tezcatlipoca: Lord of the Smoking Mirror, god of sorcery, nighttime, darkness, beauty, war, heroic men, beautiful women, and all material concerns. Tezcatlipoca is the Master Magician, a trickster god and shapeshifter, governing all worldly matters, and is also the Great Tempter, seducing men into evil acts and subsequently punishing them for their transgressions. Deep cocoa laced with patchouli, leather armor, ritual incense, and a touch of Xochiquetzal’s flowers.
In bottle: Mmm, strong but not sweet cocoa, pepper, and something woodsy.
On skin, wet: Develops a very light floral note, but otherwise remains unchanged. Not much throw either, alas.
On skin, drying: The floral notes bloom nicely. I’m not a big floral fan, but they give a nice vector to the dominant cocoa note.
Later: Decent longevity. It was never very strong but didn’t fade much for several hours. If I slathered it it’d probably stay strong for a while.
Verdict: I liked. The dark-cocoa note is really quite nice.

White Rabbit: Strong black tea and milk with white pepper, ginger, honey and vanilla, spilled over the crisp scent of clean linen.
In bottle: Full of those notes I think of as “foody”. Buttery with honey, with a light tart-fruit (pineapple?) undercurrent. I actually think I can almost smell black tea, but that might be psychosomatic.
On skin, wet: Tea really comes to the fore on application, interestingly enough, and there’s a certain milkiness too, as well as the barest hint of spice.
On skin, drying: Still very tea-like, with some chai spices (coriander? ginger?) under the surface. Not much throw, but a strong scent close to the skin.
Later: It maintains the spiced-tea note, with some honey coming through, for a few hours, displaying adequate if not extraordinary longevity.
Verdict: It’s different notes than I usually wear; the spice is very slightly like spice mixes I’ve encountered elsewhere, but the tea and honey give it a peculiar and unique texture I’ve not encountered before and rather like.


About Jake
I'm a mathematics professor at the University of Louisville, and a geek.

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